Day 9: We got up at 6:30 to hike the first length of the Bright Angel Trail – a 3 mile roundtrip hike to the first rest stop on the Trail and back - down the wall of the canyon. We brought lots of water and salty snacks, as they tell you to. The hike down was not tiring, but my legs started shaking after about 10 minutes. They are not used to continuous steep downgrades, obviously. The path was wide but a bit perilous with all the loose rock and dirt. OK, not that perilous but you constantly had to be on your guard about slipping. We reached the rest point after about an hour. The signs all say that it takes 1/3 of your hike to get down, and 2/3 to get back up. We were looking at 3 hours, which is about average for this trail. We rested at the stop for about ½ hour, and then started climbing back up. I got winded immediately, and drank lots of water. The downward path seemed endless, and I was afraid the up-canyon path would be even more so. It wasn’t. Lizzie and I went slow for a while, not wanting to push ourselves too much, but then I saw a marker near the top and got a second wind, powering up the rest of the path. It had taken us less time to reach the top as it had to get down. 2/3 as long, my ass. We were dripping with sweat, but it didn’t matter. It was 10:30 am and we were done with our first hike. We had time to do another hike, a level hike to the rim through forest. It was not a marked trail, which was all the better because we had it pretty much to ourselves. We walked through about a mile of forest with gorgeous grasses and wildflowers, til we reached the rim. I think it was the prettiest overlook yet. We ate a good lunch in the Arizona room at the Bright Angel Lodge in Grand Canyon Village and too off for Vegas. The road out of the Canyon (through the Kaibab National Forest again, and again not really a forest) was pretty. Rolling green shrubland as far as the eye can see – parts of it almost as flat as Kansas, with mountains framed in the distance. Wild sunflowers and a weird plant with the base looking like short corn and the top like saguaro cactus lined the road. We got on I40 headed west, apparently towards Los Angeles. I don’t get that – I-40 doesn’t actually reach LA, it stops when it hits I-15, which also doesn’t go to LA. So why did they put LA on the I-40 sign? Bizarre. Painful - gas is $3.09 in Arizona along I-40. Ouch. Gas pains aside, its on to Vegas, baby, Vegas! We drive over the Hoover Dam, which I previously would have been in awe of, except for two recent developments: 1) we just saw the grand canyon. Nothing can beat that, especially not something man-made; 2) recently read Cadillac Desert, which is about water in the west. Basically we have dammed up every single possible flow of water and not only is this affecting the former river environment in terms of fish species and the like, but we are also drawing more water than the system can handle. The book was written in the early 80s, the problems are so much worse now. So looking at the Hoover Dam, the engineering ‘wonder of the world’ I couldn’t help but think of the stupidity and hubris of our country in thinking it can tame nature and not reap the consequences. Ah well. Pretty Art-Deco sculptural work, tho. Now it’s on to Vegas, baby, Vegas! We drive to our hotel (after sitting in traffic for a half an hour to go 2 blocks), the Paris, check in, and take showers. Boy, are we dirty. Remember, we spent the morning hiking the Grand Canyon, and then hopped in the car. By the time we have scrubbed the filth off, we have to run to dinner before Alexa’s flight. We ate at the Paris buffet, which I had eaten at last time I was in town 5 years ago. I remembered it as an amazing culinary experience, and hyped it up to Alexa and Liz as such. They wanted to go to Nobu, which is apparently better than Nobu in NY, but I didn’t want to eat in a restaurant in Vegas a meal I could eat in NY. Why did I leave NY, then? The time crunch really decided things, tho. So we ate at Paris. It was not that good, certainly nothing close to my memory, and definitely not backing up my sales effort to Lex and Liz. Mediocre meal done, we dropped Alexa off at the airport exactly on time. Liz and I went to the “Fremont Street Experience,” which is the really old historic street of Vegas that they had decided to roof over (cause the rains in Vegas can really threaten a place). Lots of neon. Very cool. Then Liz and I went back to the hotel to take a nap so we can be refreshed for our Vegas experience. We got up at 3am (Vegas never sleeps, after all) and walked around the strip, ogling at all the fake monuments. We did the obligatory stop at New York, New York, amazed at how un-new york it looked. They poured that much money in and couldn’t even get it to look right? And the Brooklyn bridge had ads on it, damn Vegas. We did not ride the roller coaster as it does not run all night. The only people up and about were coming home from clubs drunk off their ass, or gambling. And there weren’t too many gamblers either. I don’t believe the hype, NY is still the city that never sleeps. I’ve been up at 2am in NY and the streets have been crowded. Vegas is a sham. After touring the casinos we decided to stop at one and gamble, like good tourists. We went to the Barbary Coast. Liz is a slot machine gambler; I used to be but not after realizing it’s a really boring and fast way to lose money. I played Blackjack in Vancouver in a dinky local casino and had a blast, so I was ready to try my luck at the big leagues. I did plunk a good $20 into the slots anyways, and lost it within 5 minutes. I thought slots are engineered to keep you there awhile before you lose everything? Not in my experience. Liz had wanted to try a table too so we went over to play some Blackjack, choosing a nice empty table since we don’t really know what we’re doing. The first dealer was nice. He, sadly, got replaced by an asshole. So we’re playing, and the dealer asks me what hotel I’m staying at. I reply, “the paris.” He says, “tomorrow, stop by a giftshop and pick up a card on how to play blackjack.” I was so offended. First of all, I’m a tourist. I know I don’t know how to play blackjack beyond the bare basics, and I’m there to find an enjoyable way to lose money, and am happy with any meager winnings. It’s the playing, not the winning that matters to me. Second of all, if I was really serious about playing blackjack, I wouldn’t have sat at a $5 table, which is the smallest minimum they have. After I was up $20 (to compensate for what I had lost at the slots) I withdrew. Not bad considering that’s a 33% increase over the $60 I began with. After that Liz and I left. It was daybreak already. Sweet. We went back to the hotel and crashed.
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